An esthetician’s guide to improving skin with eczema
Whether you’ve had eczema since childhood or as an adult, it’s frustrating and tricky to keep your skin feeling happy without knowing what triggers it and how to choose the right products.
Intro
Over 30 million people have some form of eczema 1 and skin care professionals are seeing more of this in the treatment room. In many, eczema started in childhood and dissipated by adulthood; however, adults that never had it as a child are presenting the condition in growing quantities.
It’s important to not exacerbate the condition. Look for ingredients and ways to work with medical or skin professionals when necessary to maintain skin health. Eczema really never goes away; however, the symptoms can be managed.
Causes and Triggers
Eczema can be caused by one or more factors. It can be caused by a gene dysfunction that compromises the skin’s barrier function or if the immune system is not functioning properly. If the skin is dry, sensitive or reactive, it will also lead to the barrier function being compromised. Bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus can create a film on skin that blocks sweat glands. There is also research suggesting that those in the same family can have eczema. Understanding what might trigger a flare-up will also be helpful. These may include any or combinations of the following:
Hormones
Stress
Environment
Diet
Sweating
Medications
Infections
Allergens in clothes, household products or personal care items
Recognizing the triggers, especially allergens and finding the right products for your skin is important.
Ingredients to Avoid
Clients with eczema should avoid known allergens. Sometimes these include common fragrances in personal care products and household products. In addition, care should be taken with using vitamin A derivatives.
Avoid Fragrances
Fragranced cosmetics, personal care items and household products should be avoided. Just because that product lists “fragrance-free” or “unscented” does not mean totally safe, as they only imply there is no apparent scent.2 Many manufacturers use essential oils to cover up the natural scent of a product that may be unpleasant, which are called masking scents. Also remember to be aware of the fragrances in the treatment room on the sheets and linens. Since sensitive skin is on the rise and fragrance allergies are more common, consider using detergents free of added fragrance. This would not only benefit the client with eczema, but also someone with hormonal issues, migraines and even undergoing treatment for cancer, as all of these are susceptible to fragrance triggers.
Avoid Vitamin A Derivatives
Be careful with forms of vitamin A on skin with eczema. The compromised barrier allows vitamin A derivatives to penetrate the layers much faster. This will most likely cause a severe reaction of redness and peeling, which are not desired for this type of skin sensitivity. If you’re interested in vitamin A, a suggestion would be to get the barrier as healthy as possible and use a form of vitamin A such as retinaldehyde. Retinaldehyde is a bioavailable form of vitamin A, which works on cellular renewal and normalization, anti-wrinkle and UV repair.3 However, always ask your doctor or dermatoligist to know if there are any other medications for eczema or any other health challenges that may be contraindicated to vitamin A.
Beneficial Ingredients
Since the goal in eczema treatment is to heal and restore the barrier, antimicrobials, barrier repair agents and hydrators will all benefit the skin.
Strengthen Barrier Function
Barrier function ingredients will help with the eczema cycle of repairing and protecting. Evergreen plant Ophiopogon japonicasa has been found to ensure an effective barrier function by activating the keratinocyte differentiation process and reinforcing the cohesion in the upper layers of the epidermis. A botanical emollientb was created to mimic the lipids found in healthy 22-year-old skin (triglycerides, sterols, wax esters, sterol esters and squalane). The complex hydrates and improves barrier recovery.
Antimicrobial/Antibacterial
The majority of atopic eczema (90%) has increased Staphylococcus aureus bacteria. While this bacteria is naturally found on most people’s skin, high amounts increase the symptoms of eczema including infection. Look for ingredients in skin products that can be antimicrobial and/or antibacterial. Honey is a popular ingredient in skin care that can be beneficial to eczema. The healing property of honey is due to its antibacterial activity, its ability to maintain a moist wound condition and its high viscosity to provide a protective barrier and prevent infection. Some eczema sufferers mix honey and beeswax directly on skin to help with itching and hydrating the skin. Black rice is also found in several skin care lines. It is an anthocyanin with antimicrobial, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.
Hydration
Ceramides could also be helpful in treating eczema clients. Naturally occurring lipids or fats found in the skin, ceramides in skin care can be helpful in hydrating the cells of the top layers of the skin, which will help repair the barrier function. Ceramides by moisturizing may also help in protecting the skin barrier. Hydrating several times a day is key for people with eczema. Shea butter can help hydrate skin with eczema and the raw version is preferred over the processed version to preserve its healing qualities. Shea butter also has vitamin A properties in a natural state, which also may be helpful with skin symptoms.